Aluminum Welding Wire
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exterior trailer trim???
We are in the process of repainted a horse trailer that we just purchased and just finished wire brushing all of the rust spots. We had to removed the aluninum trim to get to the rust that was underneath, and it bent when we removed it so we need to find new. We wanted to put aluminum back up, but if we cant find it vinyl or any other type would work. Do you know where we can find it? we just need it to cover where the welds are uneven b/c they were covered.
Here is a link to the for sale ad with pictures of the trailer.
http://www.horsetrailerworld.com/home/trailerdetail.asp?ID=144781
Also, we would like to find some type of wide trim in the front, possibly some kind of light weight diamond plate???
Hi again, Nicole
Looks like your moving along with your trailer.
For trim, there are some simple solutions.
Auto auto parts stores like "Pep Boys and Auto-Zone" there is a wide selection of edge trim. It comes on rolls of 25' and 50' in length and can be cut easily. It has a peal off backing and will stick on most anything. This product is used on auto's and trucks.
They will also have a selection of diamond plate, and a even larger supply of diamond plate at a "Big Truck" supply. In truck stores it comes in sheets and strip.
I noticed the 6" aluminum band on the front of the trailer. A excellent replacement is at "Home Depot" and called rolled flashing, or "valley flashing" it comes in rolls of 25'-50'-100.'
The Aluminum is 25' long 6" wide (or 8"-12" wide) roll, and starts about $6 a roll, and is shinny on one side and can be polished to look like chrome. If you spray some "3-M Spray Trim Adhesive" on the back, and let it tack up to be sticky, you can just wrap it around the front and cut it off with a pair of scissors. That should stay in place for years.
With that done, you can use the rolled door/ fender trim from the auto parts store to trim the top or bottom. Because this area on the bottom of the new aluminum is a "Head Bumping area" I would use the rolled 1" black rubber trim with a 3/8 wide chrome center inset. Then on top of that new wide trim you might use the 3/8" chrome (plastic) fender/wheel well trim, that they have in stock.
On the "step" areas of your trailer, you may use "Diamond Plate" to dress up a area that will always be "scratched up paint," if you don't. Then again, at the auto parts and Home Depot they have rolls of non-skid sheet rubber that you buy by the foot. (.89 per foot) with scissors you can make some step pads and using trim adhesive, spray the backs and stick into place.
The "Diamond Plate" is thin aluminum and cuts easily with any hack saw or Electric Jig with the correct blade.
If you want to create a wood grain effect you can purchase some "Formica" and cut it to your size and just like the 6" aluminum strip.. put a wood grain strip. The difference is that you will have to use a "contact" adhesive for Formica and coat the trailer and the Formica. Then you can trim it like the wide aluminum strip. One thing you should spray the Formica with a coat of clear, to protect it from rock dings and mud.
Then if you want full aluminum or chrome trim, see "counter top" metal edge trim, at a Formica supply in your area, or hardware store. These metal strips are affixed with small screws.
You will also notice at the auto parts store, they also have "pin-stripe" decoration for cars in any color you want, for about $6 a roll. That would be a nice custom finish around the finders and windows. (see other trailers)
There are usually tons of "air brush" mural painters around, (call tattoo shops some work in them) and a nice mural on the broad side of the trailer might give it a fancy look in the future.
A boat supply, will have a lots of metal trim for boats, most will be aluminum, used as "bumpers" to protect the edge surface of boats. Usually boat dealers have replacement trim, for their customers who ding up their trim. It comes straight and bends easily.
If you chose the 1" wide automotive trim, if the welds on the metal are sticking out a lot, you can carve or grind a little cup area in the back of the rubber trim making a hole the weld can stick in and the trim will lay flat. Again a drill with a small stone disc will grind a divot or hole in the rubber trim in seconds if you have a lots of spots. You can do this before you remove the "sticky tape" on the back. Then when you get a good fit......peal the tape off and just stick it on, and it will hide the welds. This trim is real forgiving for mistakes and you can pull it up and just replace it back for alignment issues.
If the 6" front trim area is smooth, at the auto parts store they also have "Chrome Rocker Panel" covering and comes on a roll and also sticks on....but its thin and will show rivets and welds. If the area is smooth....think about it, its quick and easy and cheap and looks good.
The automotive products, will stick as advertised as you will see these products on cars and trucks everywhere, once you know what these are....so it should stay on a long time if the surface is clean to start with.
Also at a auto parts store you will see a selection of trailer lights and interior lights....check that out and you can change some of them out or add some clearance lights. At the end of the trailer you should have a light to light up the loading and un-loading area at night...you may find that handy and safer.
All the lights they sell will just tie in to your existing power wires as the voltage is the same. You only need one connection because your metal trailer is the other power connection.
So what do ya think...... There is a lot of dress up products out there for cars and trucks.....that can also be used on trailers. You will see the selections and make up a plan, and on a good saturday....just "Trick it out."
("Thanks" for your vote of confidence on the last question, Nicole...its appreciated)
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